How do you make an effective swatch, and why is it essential?
Why make a swatch?
To get the exact dimensions you want!
For a knitted sweater or pullover, socks, a toque, or any project that requires a certain fit.
Steps to make a swatch:
- Follow exactly what the pattern specifies in the swatch description.
- Knit the swatch the same way as the project (flat or in the round).
- Measure the swatch dry, for example 21 stitches (width) x 31 rows (height).
- Soak the swatch.
- Block the swatch.
- Let it dry and measure again for width (number of stitches) and height (number of rows).
- Redo the swatch if needed.
Choose a pattern
For example, if you want a wool sweater (pattern example: Trescao (jumper) by Along avec Anna), you’ll need to download it and read the full pattern sheet.
What the pattern sheet indicates for the swatch
- Measurements: finished garment chest circumference. (1*) 80, 85 (90, 95, 100, 105, 110) [115, 120, 125, 130, 135] 140, 150, 158 cm (in my example, I select the 6th option; see the underlined one above)
- Ease: extra room beyond your actual measurement. I recommend positive ease (2*) between 3 and 10 cm, depending on your preference.
- Swatch: 21 sts x 31 rows = 10 cm in stockinette stitch in the round with 4 mm/US 6 needles (or another size, depending on your gauge)
- Yarn: DK yarn (3*) – approx. 600, 670 (700, 760, 800, 830, 880) [915, 1055, 1150, 1250, 1350] 1450, 1550, 1660 meters] (still the 6th option, since that’s the size I want in my example)
How do you make an effective swatch with a knitting pattern?
Choose the desired measurement.
(1*see Measurements) To get the size you want, I recommend measuring under the armpit, right at the start of the bust, and choosing the ease (2*) you want. For example, my bust measurement is 38 inches or 96.52 cm. I want 3 inches or 8 cm of ease, so 41 inches or 104.52 cm overall.
I’m going to choose the 6th measurement size, which is 105 (1*). Notice that it’s the 6th size in this pattern—everything related to size, yarn quantity, etc. will therefore also be the 6th option.
Choose the yarn.
Here, in the example, the pattern calls for DK weight yarn. Make sure you have the required amount of yarn (3*) for the size you want. Then start your swatch in the round with 4 mm needles.
Cast on the required stitches
Cast on a minimum of 21 stitches + 6 stitches = 27 stitches. However, I suggest making the swatch with 39 to 41 stitches, because the larger your swatch is, the more realistic it will be.
To continue the previous example, I’m casting on 41 stitches (20 more stitches than the 21 stitches required for the swatch).
I’ll start with 3 rows of garter stitch.
On the 1st row (which happens to be the first row after the 3 garter-stitch rows of my swatch), my first 3 stitches will be purl, the next 35 will be knit, and the last 3 stitches will be purl.
On the 2nd row, all 41 stitches will be knit. I alternate rows (1 and 2) for a minimum total of 31 rows.
Then work three more rows of garter stitch and bind off loosely.
Measure the swatch.
Measure your swatch dry (before soaking it). Count 10 stitches, place a marker, count 21 stitches and place another marker. Then measure between the two markers and write down the measurement for 21 stitches (for example, 9.5 cm). Measure your height for 31 rows (in this example, the stockinette section between the beginning and ending garter-stitch bands).
Soak your swatch for 15 to 20 minutes and blot it in a towel to remove as much water as possible. Then block your swatch the same way you’ll block your project.
For a sweater, I usually lay out and spread my swatch and my project on my blocking mat. I position it so it’s straight without stretching the swatch or the project, and secure it with blocking combs or pins in a few places to shape it properly.
Once the swatch is completely dry, measure again in the same spot—place the markers again so you can measure the 21 stitches in the center of the swatch for stitch count, and the height between the garter-stitch bands. If you get 21 stitches for 10 cm, you can start your project.
However, if the 21 stitches measure 9.75 cm, for example, when the project is finished, the circumference will be 102.14 cm instead of 105 cm. You therefore need to redo a swatch with larger needles (4.5 or 5 mm) to get 21 stitches for 10 cm.
However, if the measurement is 10.5 cm instead of 10 cm after blocking, the circumference will be 110 cm instead of 105 cm. The swatch will therefore need to be redone with smaller needles (3.5 or 3.75 mm to get 21 stitches for 10 cm).
The consequences of not making a good swatch
If you don’t get the exact gauge, the sweater won’t be the right size. It will be too small or too big. How did I do the calculation? Here’s a tip to get the project (sweater) circumference: after separating the sleeves, the pattern usually indicates how many stitches you should have on your needles for the body. Check the pattern sheet to confirm the number of stitches on the needles after sleeve separation. Still in the same example, for the 6th size, you’ll have 220 stitches. Use the rule of three to calculate the body size circumference.
- Swatch: 21 stitches = 10 cm (so 220 stitches = 105* cm for the 6th size). *220 stitches = +/- 105 cm
Rule of three: the calculation is 220 x 10 divided by 21 equals the circumference.
Note that for a shawl, for example, you might not need to make a swatch. In my opinion, it’s the only type of project where a swatch isn’t essential.
Now you understand how and why to make your swatch! All that’s left is to start. Happy knitting, and have fun!
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